How to Patch and Repair Drywall Like a Pro

Why Drywall Damage Happens (and Why It Is Easy to Fix)

Drywall is behind nearly every painted wall in your home, and it takes a beating. Doorknobs punch holes, picture hangers leave craters, temperature swings pop nails, and furniture scrapes corners. The good news: drywall is one of the most forgiving materials to repair. A few inexpensive supplies and a free afternoon are all you need.

This guide covers six common repairs, from tiny nail pops to fist-sized holes, with step-by-step instructions for each. If you plan to paint a room afterward, tackling wall repairs first is essential -- paint amplifies imperfections rather than hiding them.

Common Types of Drywall Damage

Walk the room and categorize what you are dealing with before buying supplies:

• Nail pops -- Bumps where nails or screws push through the surface, caused by lumber shrinking.
• Small holes (under 3 inches) -- Doorknob strikes, picture hooks, and shelf anchor holes.
• Medium holes (3 to 6 inches) -- Failed towel bar anchors or accidental impacts.
• Large holes (over 6 inches) -- Plumbing access, moving damage, or water-related failures.
• Hairline cracks -- Thin lines along seams or above door frames from normal settling.
• Dented corner bead -- Crushed metal strips on outside corners from vacuums or furniture.

Tools and Materials

Match your purchases to the repair type. You will not need everything for every fix.

Knives and tools: 4-inch putty knife ($5 to $8), 6-inch taping knife ($7 to $10), 10- or 12-inch taping knife ($10 to $15), drywall saw ($8 to $12), utility knife ($5 to $8), drill/driver.

Patching materials: Lightweight spackle such as DAP Fast 'N Final ($5 to $8), all-purpose pre-mixed joint compound ($8 to $15), self-adhesive fiberglass mesh tape ($4 to $6), self-adhesive mesh patches in 4- or 6-inch sizes ($3 to $5 each), 1/2-inch drywall scraps ($5 to $10), 1x3 furring strips for backing ($3 to $5), 1-5/8-inch drywall screws ($5 per box).

Finishing supplies: 120-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge ($4 to $6), 150-grit sandpaper ($4 to $6), primer such as Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 or Kilz 2 ($10 to $15 per quart).

Total cost for a small repair: $10 to $20. A complete kit for all repair types: $60 to $90.

Fix 1: Nail Pops and Small Dents

Time: 15 minutes | Difficulty: Beginner | Cost: Under $10

1. Drive a new screw 1 to 2 inches above or below the popped nail. Use a 1-5/8-inch drywall screw and sink the head just below the surface without breaking through the paper face.
2. Set the old nail below the surface with a hammer and nail set. If it will not hold, pull it out with pliers.
3. Apply spackle with a 4-inch putty knife, pressing it into each dimple and scraping flush. Keep the layer thin.
4. Let it dry for 1 to 2 hours. Apply a second thin coat if the dimple is still visible.
5. Sand smooth with 120-grit once fully dry.
6. Prime and paint. Spot-prime the repair, then touch up with a small roller -- not a brush, which leaves a different texture.

Fix 2: Small Holes Up to 3 Inches

Time: 30 minutes | Difficulty: Beginner | Cost: $5 to $15

This covers doorknob holes, anchor craters, and toggle bolt damage.

1. Clean the hole. Remove loose material and sand any raised edges flat.
2. Apply a self-adhesive mesh patch centered over the hole, extending at least 1 inch beyond the edges in every direction.
3. First coat: Spread joint compound over the entire patch with a 6-inch taping knife, extending about 2 inches past the mesh. Press firmly to force compound through the mesh.
4. Dry 2 to 4 hours, then apply a second coat extending 2 to 3 inches wider than the first.
5. Sand lightly with 120-grit after the second coat dries. Apply a third coat extending even wider and thinner.
6. Final sand with 150-grit. Wipe dust with a damp cloth.
7. Prime and paint. For best results, repaint the entire wall section from corner to corner.

Fix 3: Medium Holes 3 to 6 Inches (California Patch)

Time: 1 hour plus drying over two days | Difficulty: Intermediate | Cost: $10 to $20

The California patch (also called a butterfly patch) uses a piece of drywall as its own backer -- no strips or mesh tape needed.

1. Cut a drywall piece about 2 inches larger than the hole in each direction.
2. Score the back. On the brown paper side, score the gypsum 1 inch from each edge. Snap and peel the gypsum away but leave the front paper face intact. You will have a center plug surrounded by paper flaps.
3. Trace and cut. Hold the plug against the wall, trace around it, and cut the hole to match with a drywall saw.
4. Test the fit. The plug should sit snugly in the hole with the paper flaps lying flat on the surrounding wall.
5. Set the patch. Spread joint compound around the hole edges, press the patch in, and smooth the flaps into the compound with a taping knife.
6. Apply three coats of joint compound, extending each coat 2 to 3 inches wider than the last. Sand lightly between coats with 120-grit.
7. Final sand with 150-grit, prime, and paint.

Fix 4: Large Holes Over 6 Inches (Cut-and-Replace)

Time: 2 hours plus drying over two to three days | Difficulty: Intermediate to Advanced | Cost: $15 to $35

This is the same technique professionals use -- cut out the damage and install a new drywall piece on backing strips.

1. Square up the hole. Draw a rectangle around the damage and cut along the lines with a drywall saw. Shine a flashlight into the opening first to check for wires or plumbing.
2. Install backing strips. Cut two pieces of 1x3 lumber about 4 inches longer than the opening height. Slide each strip into the hole, position it half behind the existing drywall and half exposed, and drive two drywall screws through the existing wall into the strip.
3. Cut and secure the patch. Measure the opening, cut 1/2-inch drywall to fit (no more than 1/8-inch gap), and screw it into the backing strips.
4. Tape the seams with self-adhesive fiberglass mesh tape on all four joints.
5. Apply three coats of compound. Start with a 6-inch knife on the first coat, then switch to a 10- or 12-inch knife for the second and third coats. Feather each coat 4 to 6 inches wider than the last. Fill screw dimples on the first coat.
6. Final sand with 150-grit, prime, and repaint the full wall for the best color match.

Fix 5: Hairline Cracks

Time: 30 minutes | Difficulty: Beginner | Cost: $8 to $15

Hairline cracks along seams and above door frames are caused by normal settling or poor original taping.

1. Widen the crack slightly with the corner of a putty knife to about 1/8 inch. This gives the compound something to grip.
2. Center mesh tape over the crack. For inside corners, fold the tape along its crease and press it in.
3. Apply three coats of joint compound, feathering each coat 3 to 4 inches wider than the last. Sand lightly between coats.
4. Final sand with 150-grit, prime, and paint.

If a crack returns within a few months, it may signal a structural issue -- see the section on when to call a professional below.

Fix 6: Dented Metal Corner Bead

Time: 45 minutes | Difficulty: Intermediate | Cost: $5 to $15

Corner bead takes a beating from vacuums, furniture, and foot traffic. A dented outside corner is one of the most visible imperfections in a room.

1. Straighten the bead. Hold a flat wood block against the dent and tap firmly with a hammer to push the metal back into alignment. Use several light taps rather than one heavy blow.
2. Scrape loose compound from around the damage with a putty knife to expose the metal edge.
3. Re-secure if needed. If the bead has pulled away, drive a drywall screw through it into the stud behind.
4. Apply compound to both sides of the corner with a 6-inch taping knife, using the metal edge as a straightedge guide.
5. Second and third coats, feathering 4 to 6 inches from the corner on each side. Sand between coats.
6. Final sand with 150-grit, prime, and paint both sides.

The Finishing Process: Making Patches Disappear

The finishing technique is what separates invisible repairs from obvious ones. It requires patience, not skill.

Feathering in Three Coats

Each coat of joint compound should be thinner and wider than the last:

• First coat -- Fill the repair and cover the tape. This is structural, not cosmetic.
• Second coat -- Extend 2 to 3 inches wider using a broader knife. Apply thin enough that the first coat shows through in spots.
• Third coat -- Extend another 2 to 3 inches wider. The outer edges should blend to nothing.

Sanding Technique

Sand between coats with 120-grit using light, circular motions -- you are removing ridges, not grinding. For the final pass, switch to 150-grit. Run your hand over the surface; if you can feel the edge of the repair, keep sanding. Use a sanding sponge for corners and a block for flat walls. Always wear a dust mask.

Priming Before Paint

This step is non-negotiable. Bare compound absorbs paint differently than the surrounding wall, creating a visible dull spot called flashing. Apply one coat of PVA drywall primer (Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 or Kilz 2) over the repair and at least 2 inches onto the surrounding surface. Let it dry fully before your topcoat.

To estimate the overall cost of painting after repairs, try our painting cost estimator.

Common Mistakes That Make Patches Visible

• Too much compound at once. Thick coats crack, shrink unevenly, and leave ridges. Three thin coats always beat one thick one.
• Not feathering wide enough. A narrow transition is a visible transition. Spread the compound wider than feels necessary.
• Skipping primer. The single most common cause of visible patches. Flashing shows immediately, especially in side-lighting.
• Brushing instead of rolling touch-up paint. Brush strokes create a different texture than rolled walls. Use a small roller even on a quarter-sized repair.
• Skipping sanding between coats. Each layer compounds the imperfections of the one below it.
• Painting over dust. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth after sanding and before priming. Dust trapped under primer creates rough texture.

For a full walkthrough on painting technique, see our guide on how to paint a room like a pro.

When to Call a Professional

Most drywall repairs are solid DIY projects. These situations are worth calling in help:

• Water-damaged drywall. Soft, swollen, or moldy drywall must be fully removed and the moisture source fixed first. A professional can assess whether damage extends into framing or insulation.
• Structural cracks that reappear. A crack that returns within weeks may indicate foundation settling or framing movement that needs evaluation by a contractor or structural engineer.
• Homes built before 1980. Older joint compound and textured ceilings may contain asbestos. Have a sample tested ($25 to $75 through a certified lab) before sanding or scraping anything.
• Ceiling repairs in high or awkward locations. Overhead work on a ladder is physically demanding, and ceiling patches show imperfections more readily due to lighting angles.
• Large-scale damage. When entire walls need repair from flooding, fire, or renovation, a drywall contractor will be faster and more cost-effective than a piecemeal DIY approach.

A handyman typically charges $75 to $200 per patch. A drywall contractor may charge $50 to $75 per hour for larger jobs. For most single-patch repairs, a Saturday afternoon of your own time saves the full cost while building a skill you will use for years.

Final Thoughts

Drywall repair is one of the most practical home maintenance skills you can develop. The materials are cheap, the techniques are forgiving, and the results are immediately satisfying. Start with a nail pop to build confidence, then work up to larger repairs as your feathering improves. The secret every professional finisher knows is that patience -- not talent -- makes a patch invisible. Thin coats, light sanding, and primer before paint. Your walls will look like the damage never happened.