Garage Door Repair: Troubleshooting Common Problems

Your Garage Door Is Not Working — Start Here

A malfunctioning garage door is more than an inconvenience. It is a security issue, a potential safety hazard, and — if your car is trapped inside — a disruption to your entire day. The good news is that many garage door problems have straightforward causes that a homeowner can diagnose and often fix without a service call.

This guide walks through the seven most common garage door problems, their causes, and whether each is a safe DIY fix or a job that requires a professional. Read the quick diagnosis table to identify your symptom, then jump to the relevant section.

Quick Diagnostic: Identify Your Symptom

Problem 1: Remote or Keypad Not Working

If the wall-mounted button inside the garage operates the door normally but the remote or keypad does not, the problem is with the remote device rather than the opener itself.

Replace the batteries. This accounts for the majority of remote failures. Most garage door remotes use CR2032 coin cells or a single 9-volt battery. Keypads typically use a 9-volt. A weak battery can reduce the signal range before it fails completely, which is why many homeowners first notice the remote only works when they are very close to the door.

Reprogram the remote. Power surges, accidental button presses, and battery replacement can clear the remote's programming. Every opener brand has a different reprogramming process, but the general steps are the same:

1. Locate the LEARN button on the back or side of the opener motor unit (you may need a ladder).
2. Press and release the LEARN button. An indicator light will turn on.
3. Within 30 seconds, press and hold the button on the remote you want to program.
4. The opener light will flash or you will hear a click, confirming the remote is paired.

Consult the owner's manual for your specific opener brand. Remotes for LiftMaster, Chamberlain, and Craftsman follow a color-coded system (purple, yellow, orange, or green LEARN buttons) that must match the remote's frequency.

Check for interference. LED light bulbs installed in the opener can interfere with the radio signal on some models. If your remote stopped working after switching to LED bulbs, try removing the bulbs or replacing them with ones rated as garage door opener compatible. Nearby electronics, new wireless devices, or even a neighbor's new opener operating on the same frequency can also cause interference.

Test the wall button. If neither the remote nor the wall button works, the issue is with the opener itself or the power supply, not the remote. Move to Problem 2.

Problem 2: No Power to the Opener

If the opener does not respond to any input — no lights, no sound, no motor movement — the most likely cause is a power supply issue.

Check the GFCI outlet. Many garage door openers are plugged into a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) outlet, which can trip independently of the circuit breaker. Look at the outlet where the opener is plugged in and press the RESET button. GFCI outlets in garages trip frequently due to moisture, temperature fluctuations, and power surges. If the outlet continues to trip, have an electrician inspect it.

Check the circuit breaker. Find the breaker labeled for the garage at your electrical panel. A tripped breaker sits in the middle position between ON and OFF. Flip it fully to OFF, then back to ON. If it trips again immediately, stop and call an electrician — repeated tripping indicates an electrical fault.

Inspect the power cord. Verify that the opener is firmly plugged in. Vibration from the motor can gradually work the plug loose over months. Also look for any visible damage to the cord — rodents in garages will occasionally chew through wiring.

Burned-out motor. If the outlet has power (test it by plugging in a lamp or phone charger) and the opener still does not respond, the motor or control board may have failed. A humming sound without motor movement usually means stripped gears inside the opener. An opener that is completely unresponsive with a confirmed good power supply likely has a failed circuit board. Opener replacement costs $250 to $550 installed, depending on the model and features. For units less than 10 years old, board or gear replacement at $100 to $200 may be worthwhile.

Problem 3: Safety Sensor Misalignment

Federal law has required garage door openers manufactured after 1993 to include photoelectric safety sensors. These are the two small units mounted on either side of the door frame, approximately 6 inches above the floor. One sensor sends an invisible infrared beam to the other. If anything breaks that beam while the door is closing, the door reverses to prevent injury or property damage.

When the sensors are misaligned, the door typically goes up without any issue but refuses to close, or it reverses immediately after you press the button.

Check the LED indicator lights. Each sensor has a small LED. The exact color scheme varies by brand, but in most cases one sensor (the sending unit) shows a steady light and the receiving sensor shows either a steady or blinking light. A blinking light on the receiving sensor almost always means misalignment.

Clean the sensor lenses. Dust, cobwebs, and grime on the small plastic lens can block the beam. Wipe both lenses with a soft dry cloth.

Realign the sensors. The sensors must point directly at each other. Over time, a bump from a bike tire, a broom handle, or even settling of the door frame can knock one out of alignment.

1. Loosen the wing nut or bracket screw on the sensor that has the blinking light.
2. Slowly adjust the sensor angle while watching the LED.
3. When the LED turns solid (stops blinking), the sensors are aligned.
4. Tighten the bracket and test the door.

Check the wiring. Sensor wires run from each unit along the wall and up to the opener. Look for damaged, pinched, or disconnected wires. A staple driven through a wire during other work is a common culprit. If wiring is damaged, splice the break with wire nuts and electrical tape or replace the wire run.

Bypass test (for diagnosis only). If you want to confirm that the sensors are the issue, hold down the wall button continuously. On most openers, holding the wall button overrides the sensor safety and forces the door closed. This confirms the sensors are the problem but should only be used as a diagnostic step — never as a permanent workaround. The sensors exist to prevent the door from closing on a person, pet, or object.

Problem 4: Door Reverses Immediately After Closing

If the door travels all the way down, touches the floor, and then immediately reverses back up, the issue is usually the close limit switch rather than the sensors.

Adjust the close limit switch. The limit switches tell the opener how far the door should travel in each direction. If the close limit is set too far, the opener thinks the door has hit an obstruction when it contacts the floor and reverses as a safety measure. On most openers, the limit adjustments are two small screws or dials on the back or side of the motor unit, labeled UP and DOWN. Turn the DOWN limit screw in small increments (one-quarter turn at a time), then test. Repeat until the door closes fully and stays closed without reversing.

Check for a physical obstruction. Inspect the full length of both tracks for debris, small objects, or ice buildup (in cold climates). Even a small rock or a piece of insulation caught in the track can cause a reversal.

Inspect the track for damage. A bent or dented section of track creates resistance that the opener interprets as an obstruction. Minor bends can be straightened with a rubber mallet, but a severely damaged track section should be replaced.

Problem 5: Door Will Not Stay Open or Slams Shut

WARNING: This almost always indicates a broken spring. Garage door springs are under extreme tension and are one of the most dangerous components in a home. Do not attempt to repair or replace torsion springs yourself.

A standard two-car garage door weighs 150 to 300 pounds. The springs — not the opener motor — do the heavy lifting. The opener motor provides the automation, but the springs counterbalance the door's weight so it can be lifted with minimal force. When a spring breaks, the full weight of the door is unsupported.

Signs of a Broken Spring

• You heard a loud bang from the garage. A breaking torsion spring releases stored energy violently and produces a sound like a gunshot. Many homeowners mistake this for something falling or an intruder.
• The door is extremely heavy to lift manually. If you disconnect the opener using the emergency release cord and the door is nearly impossible to lift, the spring has failed.
• A visible gap in the torsion spring. Look at the spring mounted on the shaft above the door. A broken spring will have a visible gap of 2 to 3 inches where it snapped.
• The door opens a few inches then stops. The opener motor cannot lift the full unassisted weight of the door and stalls.

What to Do

1. Stop using the door immediately. Operating the opener with a broken spring strains the motor, can strip the gears, and risks the door crashing down uncontrolled.
2. Do not attempt to open the door manually unless you need to free a vehicle. If you must, have two adults lift from the bottom while a third person steadies the door. Be aware the door can drop without warning.
3. Call a professional. Spring replacement costs $150 to $350 for a pair (both springs should always be replaced at the same time, even if only one has broken, because the second is equally aged and will fail soon). The cost difference between professional installation and a DIY attempt is only $50 to $100 — a small price for avoiding a component that causes multiple deaths and thousands of emergency room visits each year.

Torsion springs are mounted on a shaft above the door and are wound with specialized tools called winding bars. The stored energy in a wound torsion spring can launch a winding bar with lethal force if it slips. This is not a cost-saving opportunity. It is one of the few home repairs where professional service is unequivocally the right choice.

Extension springs, which run along the horizontal tracks on either side of the door, are less dangerous but still carry significant force. If your door uses extension springs, check that safety cables are threaded through them. These cables prevent a broken spring from becoming a projectile.

Problem 6: Noisy Operation

Some noise is normal for a garage door, but grinding, squealing, rattling, or vibration that has gotten worse over time usually points to a maintenance issue.

Lubricate all moving parts. Use white lithium grease or a silicone-based garage door lubricant. Do not use WD-40 — it is a solvent and degreaser, not a long-term lubricant, and will actually strip existing lubrication.

Apply lubricant to:

• Hinges — especially the pivot points where the hinge pin connects the door sections.
• Rollers — the small wheels that ride inside the tracks. Apply lubricant to the bearings, not the outer wheel surface.
• Torsion spring — a light coat reduces noise and helps prevent rust and corrosion.
• Bearing plates and pulleys — the round plates at either end of the torsion spring shaft.
• The top of the rail — where the opener trolley slides.

Do not lubricate the tracks themselves. Grease inside the tracks collects dirt and debris, creating a sticky buildup that impedes smooth operation. If the tracks are dirty, wipe them clean with a dry rag.

Replace worn rollers. Standard steel rollers have a lifespan of about 10,000 cycles (one cycle equals one open and one close). If the rollers are visibly worn, chipped, or no longer spin freely, replace them. Nylon rollers are quieter than steel and do not require lubrication. A set of 10 nylon rollers costs $30 to $60 and can be replaced one at a time by removing the hinge bracket from the door — except for the bottom bracket on each side, which is connected to the lift cable and is under spring tension. Leave the bottom brackets to a professional.

Tighten loose hardware. The constant vibration of opening and closing loosens bolts over time. Use a socket wrench to tighten all hinge bolts, bracket bolts, and the fasteners securing the track to the wall and ceiling. Check the bolts on the opener's mounting bracket as well.

Vibration from the opener. If the noise is primarily coming from the ceiling where the opener is mounted, the vibration may be transmitting through the framing. Replace a metal mounting bracket with a vibration-isolating bracket kit ($15 to $25) to reduce noise transfer into the living space.

Problem 7: Door Opens Unevenly or Goes Off-Track

A door that rises crookedly — one side higher than the other — or binds and jams in the tracks has a mechanical issue that should be addressed before it worsens.

Cable issues. Lift cables run from the bottom bracket on each side of the door, up and around a drum at the top of the torsion spring shaft. If one cable has slipped off its drum, frayed, or broken, the door will lift unevenly. A frayed cable is a warning sign — it will break soon, and when it does, the unsupported side of the door will drop. Cable repair and replacement should be handled by a professional because the cables are connected to the spring system and are under significant tension. Cable replacement typically costs $150 to $250.

Track alignment. The vertical and horizontal tracks must be plumb, level, and properly spaced. Use a level to check the vertical tracks. If a track has shifted, loosen the mounting brackets, tap the track into position with a rubber mallet, re-check with the level, and retighten the brackets.

Track gap. There should be a small, consistent gap (about one-quarter inch) between the rollers and the track wall. If the track is too tight, the rollers bind. If it is too loose, the rollers can pop out. Adjust the track brackets to achieve even spacing.

Bent track. A section of track that has been dented or bent by impact (a car bumper, a falling object) can derail the rollers. Minor dents can be tapped out with a rubber mallet and a block of wood. A severely bent track section needs to be replaced — track sections cost $30 to $75 per piece.

Preventive Maintenance Schedule

A few minutes of maintenance twice per year prevents most of the problems described above. Perform this checklist in spring and fall.

Lubricate all moving parts. Apply white lithium grease to hinges, rollers, springs, bearing plates, and pulleys. This single step eliminates the majority of noise complaints and extends the life of these components.

Test the door balance. Disconnect the opener by pulling the emergency release cord. Lift the door manually to about waist height and let go. A properly balanced door should stay in place, rising or falling no more than a few inches. If it drops to the floor or shoots upward, the springs need adjustment — call a professional.

Test the auto-reverse safety feature. Place a 2x4 board flat on the ground in the door's path. Close the door with the opener. The door should reverse immediately upon contacting the board. If it does not, adjust the close force or limit settings on the opener. If it still does not reverse, stop using the opener until it is repaired — a door that does not auto-reverse is a serious safety hazard.

Test the sensor reversal. Close the door with the opener, then wave your foot through the sensor beam at the bottom of the door frame. The door should reverse immediately. If it does not, check the sensor alignment (Problem 3).

Tighten all hardware. Go over every bolt on the hinges, brackets, track mounts, and opener bracket with a socket wrench.

Inspect cables and springs visually. Look for frayed cables, rust on the springs, gaps in coils, or signs of wear. Do not touch the springs or cables — visual inspection only. If you see damage, schedule a professional service call before the component fails.

Inspect the weatherstripping. The rubber seal along the bottom of the door keeps out rain, pests, and drafts. Replace it when it is cracked, torn, or no longer makes full contact with the floor. Bottom seals cost $15 to $40 and press or slide into a retaining channel on the door's bottom panel.

When to Call a Professional

Not every garage door repair is a DIY project. Call a qualified garage door technician for:

• Torsion spring replacement. These springs are under life-threatening tension. Professional replacement costs $150 to $350 and takes about an hour.
• Cable replacement or reattachment. Cables connect to the spring system and are under load. Attempting to remove or reattach them without proper training and tools can release stored spring energy.
• Structural damage to the door. A door that has been hit by a vehicle or severely dented may have compromised panel integrity. Forcing a damaged door open or closed can cause it to buckle out of the tracks.
• Opener motor or gear replacement. If the motor hums but the door does not move, the internal gears are likely stripped. Gear kits cost $20 to $40, but the disassembly and reassembly of the opener requires mechanical experience.
• Complete opener replacement. A new opener installed by a professional costs $250 to $550 and includes setup, programming, and disposal of the old unit.
• Any situation where you are unsure. A garage door is the largest moving object in most homes. When in doubt, bring in a professional.

Get a free quote from qualified garage door professionals in your area to compare pricing before scheduling service.

Garage Door Repair Cost Reference

Costs vary by region, door size, and contractor. Always get two to three written estimates for any repair over $300.

Start With the Simple Fixes

Most garage door problems are not emergencies requiring an immediate service call. Dead remote batteries, tripped outlets, dirty sensor lenses, and dry hinges account for the majority of issues and cost nothing to fix. Work through the diagnostic table at the top of this guide, address what you can safely handle, and call a professional for anything involving springs, cables, or structural damage.

The one repair you should never delay is a broken spring. A door operating with a broken spring puts extreme stress on the opener, risks an uncontrolled drop of 150 to 300 pounds, and will only get more expensive as secondary components fail. If you hear that telltale bang or the door suddenly feels impossibly heavy, stop using it and schedule a professional repair right away.